Sunday, July 25, 2010

Discoveries My First Month in Belgium

Now that I've been here a month, I think I can offer some insight on life as a new Belgian resident.  I say resident, because any day now, I should have a policeman going by our house (hope it's after we move in), to check that I exist, and then I'm on my way of becoming a Belgian resident with Belgian resident perks.  My husband, who is US military stationed here, cannot be a Belgian resident...that's why all the bills will come in my name.  Huh?  Anyway, after being here a month, I think I am an expert in my opinion and can offer the following observations.

In no particular order:


  • Even though everyone says that it is dreary, rainy and cold here (even the Belgians say this), I have found this summer superhot, mostly in the 80s and 90s with only four days of some rain.
  • At least with the French (which is 20 minutes away), never say "Gesundheit" or "Bless You".  Apparently, you don't say that after someone sneezes....still waiting to hear a Belgian sneeze so I can test this out.
  • If you plan on bringing your pet with you on this assignment (at least in the SHAPE/Chievres area), and you are staying on post at the lodge...AND...you are coming in on the weekend, make note that the kennel closes at 1500.
  • I would not bring a super nice car here as the roads are bad to worse and winters put a real toll on it too.  This is probably why the Belgian government does yearly inspections of cars older than four years old (at about 50 euro a pop).  If your vehicle does not have a rear foglight, then get one before coming here.  I'll post more later on the inspection and registration process and what steps you have to complete in getting a foglight installed as well as a pre-inspection.
  • Remember that as a SHAPIAN as you are called, you are allowed only ONE vehicle tax-free.  Make sure this is your vehicle with the BIGGEST engine.  If you buy a second car, like a little roadrunner with a small engine, you'll end up paying a yearly roadtax (think it's yearly) on the bigger one you have being shipped over if you buy and register your little car first.  For a big minivan, expect to pay around 1000 euro down to 250 euro for a small vehicle.
  • You REALLY have to follow the priority from the right rule.  This means if you come to an intersection that does not show that you have priority (start learning the signs now), you must yield to vehicles coming from the right, even if it is a goatpath!  Pay close attention here!
  • In a restaurant, do not signal the waiter by yelling "Garcon" (which means BOY).  It is rude.
  • If you are going to a restaurant outside of the "big city" and not on the strip between Chievres Air Base and SHAPE, don't expect lunch (unless it specifically says so) and don't expect dinner service until 1830 in the evening.  We went through three country restaurants before we figured this out.
  • If you like fleamarketing and antique hunting, you will be in heaven here!  I will post about this on a later date too.
  • Shopping in France is much cheaper.  Drive South of Mons for 20 minutes and there you are.
  • Veggies and fruits are fresher and cheaper on the economy.  Take advantage of all the farmers' markets.
  • I was thrilled to find quite a few stores such as supermarkets and bakeries open on Sunday (even if it is for limited hours).
  • Train travel is cheap compared to Germany and you can be in Paris in two hours, Brussels in 45 minutes and London in 4-1/2.
  • Paris is only 2-1/2 hours away by car.  Many people drive there, park outside the city and take public transportation in.
  • We have discovered some amazing beaches on the North Sea with wide sandy beaches, sand dunes, boardwalks, amusement parks and trails galore.  It is only 1-1/2 hours away.  I'll have to write more about this wonderful area around De Panne.
  • We are in the middle of farmland, so you will see tractors and farm equipment on the roads, and I have heard during sugarbeet season, you will be amazed at what rolls off the trucks.
  • Speaking of trucks, you will have more windshield cracks and dings here than anywhere else.
  • Since USAA has to go through another company here, their insurance quotes are expensive.  Check Geico outside the frontgate and others.
  • For car rentals, check out the clunker agency across from the flags outside the gate at SHAPE HQ.  You'll pay half of what you would typically pay to the big car rental agencies.
  • If you come in the summer, none of the off post hotels have AC.  Stick with Chievres Lodge which is new, modern and has AC.
  • Don't bring your basic appliances.  In the Spring, Summer and Fall, you will find large fleamarkets on SHAPE, as well as the thrift shop on Chievres (and not to mention civilian fleamarkets).  If you use your 110 volt appliances from the US, you can buy transformers (which also can be found at these sales) to step down the 220 volt European voltage.  Your US alarm clocks and other appliances that cycle will not work accurately.  If you have an expensive standmixer, leave it in the US as the motor can easily get burned out and ruin your machine.
  • Bring a fuel efficient vehicle, as you are limited by what you get fuel-wise (more so than in Germany and dependent on engine size).
  • Brush up on your French.  They speak French here and no, not a lot of people speak English away from post (except maybe in Brussels and larger cities).
  • Be sure to read my housing article.
  • Realize that utilities bills are much, much higher than in the US.  Start watching your water usage and turn off lights when not in use.  After you arrive and move in, be sure to unplug your transformers completely, as they can still draw power when turned off.
  • As part of your housing contract you can negotiate with your landlord (with assistance from the housing office), do the following.  If your home doesn't have one, get a day/night electric meter installed which gives you huge discounts on electricity after 10 pm at night and on the weekends.
Do you have any tips to share?  I'll add more as I think of them!

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